Menswear designer Mathew Zabala explores artistry, innovation from sketches to the runway
December 2024
Seated among a small sewing group of older women, a young Mathew Zabala embraced the tender nature of the atmosphere that surrounded him. As he observed the women craft hand-held pouches and other stitched knick knacks, he found his ultimate guidance through the class’ instructor as he eased into a new skill set.
“She just wanted to mentor somebody and that it was almost perfect,” Zabala said. “It was towards the end of her teaching career and at the beginning of mine. She gave me a lot of the skills that I know today.”
From these lessons, Zabala found his footing in fashion leading him to launch a career as a menswear designer under his namesake brand, Zabala. Exploring self-presentation, his bold designs fuse sportswear and luxury with developmental practices like 3D printing.
He was born in New York to two artist parents who often brought him to fine art exhibitions, from which he grew a fondness for the techniques and, later, graphic design. Relocation was often required in his parents’ field of work, but Zabala said he loved experiencing each new culture along the way.
His family eventually settled in London where Zabala began university at Central Saint Martins in 2019. His studies ranged across multiple design disciplines, including an “open projects” practice. One project’s prompt focused on clothing and textiles which excited Zabala, a former luxury garment reseller.
First drawn to profitable brands like Supreme, Zabala discovered labels like Maison Margiela and Raf Simons. He studied their value and veered away from reselling to hone his taste for craftsmanship.
Zabala remained focused on his passion, regardless of opposing feedback. He said in the beginning of his journey, some people told him a straight male entering the fashion space was odd.
“I didn't find it weird,” Zabala said. “I thought it was weird that people thought it was weird. I was like, ‘Everybody wears clothes.’ I didn't understand that element to it because I'm like, ‘Don't you want to look cool?’”
Zabala’s motivated by innovation, with extensive perspectives regarding fashion nestled in storytelling. The fashion world is saturated with dozens of designers, so when he releases his creations to the public, they must have a “never seen before” factor, he said.
Zabala said people view his work but don’t always know the meaning behind it so they invent their own stories to make sense of what is before them. Fashion is malleable, he said. It’s something to have fun with as long as it is done with meaning.
Eyes remain glued to his work. But, rather than continually designing for the masses, Zabala tailors his focus to one figure —Ruben Long. During Zabala’s final year at CSM, he met Long who was beginning his first year at the university. Zabala remembers Long as “quiet but cool in his own way,” Zabala said. Zabala would ask Long to model his designs and provide commentary on each garment. By brainstorming design and styling ideas, their friendship strengthened and Long became Zabala’s stylist and muse. Currently, Long’s modeling populates much of the Zabala Instagram grid.
“I've worked with a lot of stylists, but none of them really felt like they got me and I got them,” Zabala said. “This was so natural, and so finding someone like (Long) is so important because I dress with him in mind.”
As Zabala’s career progresses, he sets a new goal each year. Past milestones include his admission to CSM and having his entire collection, “The Break,” featured in the university’s competitive final B.A. show before his peers, professors and industry leaders.
Since getting into fashion, Zabala said he’d also hoped to dress rapper Lil Yachty and Harlem, NY-born fashion mogul Bloody Osiris because of the social and creative circles he was in. Zabala said the dreams coming to life were both “wow” moments.
From selling his first item to releasing his first collaboration in February 2025, Zabala shows no signs of halting his craft anytime soon
“The goalpost keeps on getting moved,” Zabala said.
“The goalpost keeps on getting moved.”
Boot Scootin’ Buyin’
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Winter 2023 Fashion & Styling Inspo
November 2023
Photo by Lilly Sisto (@lillysisto)
Photo by Luna Roberta (@lunaklestrup)
Laura Harrier (@lauraharrier)
Current Fall Wardrobe Wishlist
September 2023
Links:
NA-KD Open Back Tank Top - “Business in the front, party in the back” kind of vibe. I would style this top with a pair of slacks and platform loafers.
J Crew Berkeley Tote - The perfect brown tote for school or work and would look amazing with a long wool trench coat and a chunky scarf.
The Row Zipped Combat Boots - Saw Lilly Sisto wear these boots and immediately fell in love with them. They’re definitely a little $$$, but, trust, when I get my big girl job, these will be my first purchase.
Gap Boucle Cropped Sweater Jacket - This versatile piece comes in light grey, beige and navy blue. It can be easily dressed with a pleated mini skirt and tights or a pair of low-rise jeans.
Mango Braided Wool Sweater - The oversized fit makes this sweater great for layering during cooler months.
New Balance 1906R - A great staple pair of sneakers to throw on with any outfit. I recently discovered this style of New Balance sneaker and they’re officially one of my favorite shoes of all time.
6 Pairings to Try Before Summer’s End
Yellow Lenses & Oversized Tees
Ballet Flats & Slouchy Jeans
Mockneck Bodysuits & Denim Skirts
Oversized Button-up cuffed with Blazer
Gold Statement Earrings & Hair Clips
Wide-leg Jeans & Cowgirl Boots
Update Your Winter Wardrobe With This Season’s Top Trends
December 2022
It’s that time of the year again! Winter is in full swing, welcoming the annual adjustment of daily routines and preparations to face the following months of frigid winds, cloudy days and the upcoming new year. Maybe you’re stumped about how to revamp last year’s pieces, or you’ve finally decided to go on a much-needed shopping spree to bring the wardrobe you’ve been manifesting on your Pinterest board to life. Wherever you may be in your winter fashion journey, here is a specially curated list of some essential pieces for this season and styling inspiration to help.
The Classic Collar – Many of us have mastered the art of facing east coast winters with one indispensable item to brave freezing gusts of wind: a reliable jacket. Last season, the iconic puffer found stardom in various colors and styles. This season, however, collared shearling jackets are taking center stage. From staple denim to the classic motorcycle style, shearling jackets are a staple for those days when cooler temperatures require a cozier layer to any outfit. A favorite shearling jacket that recently caught my eye is the “Waylon” by the streetwear label Kith. With a sticker price of over a thousand dollars, the “Waylon” is unlikely to be in your check-out cart, but use it as an inspiration as you look at more affordable versions of this popular winter offering. A jacket like this, designed in an aviator silhouette and silver hardware, could be styled casually with a pair of dark-wash Levi 501s, a basic white long-sleeve, ankle-length white socks, and New Balance 550s.
The Monochromatic Uniform – I first became interested in monochrome outfits while keeping up with NBA style. For years, basketball intersected with fashion through player collaborations with sportswear brands like Nike, Under Armour and Adidas, combos that have produced some of the most widely known and worn basketball sneakers. In recent years, however, NBA fashion has begun to evolve with individual players experimenting with street style and formal wear, proving to sports fans that the runway from travel buses to the locker room is just as invigorating as a Gucci show during fashion week. The Lakers’ Russell Westbrook is a true pioneer of today’s NBA style. While frequently sporting eye-popping ensembles, the point guard sometimes opts for a more minimalist statement in a casual matching set with complementing accessories. That’s why I’m taking inspiration from Westbrook this season and heading to my favorite fashion one-stop-shop, Aritzia, for my winter uniform. The brand is known for carrying many sweatsuit fabrics and colors that could easily be styled with a pair of Adidas Sambas, a puffer vest, and a baseball cap of your favorite sports team.
The Maxi Moment – Typically, ankle-length skirts are thought to be strictly spring and summer attire. While a fair argument can be made for this seasonal limit, I beg to differ. Maxi skirts are functional, fashionable and easy to throw over a pair of tights or leggings for those cool mornings when you can’t quite bring yourself to battle dropping temperatures. Social media model and beauty guru Kylie Jenner recently inspired my season-less maxi skirt obsession, flaunting her own, styled with Ugg classic mini platform boots and an oversized leather jacket.